My final day in Rome and I am very sad. I know I have a lot to see and many plans made, but something about Roma feels “right”… I am at peace here (even in the chaos) Yes, my friends have made it unbelievable and much more enjoyable… but it goes beyond that. I love the rich culture, the city vibe and surprisingly the really warm people. I never in a million years thought I would fall in love with Rome, I wasn’t even that thrilled about going there. Boy am I eating my words, thoughts and assumptions; as I am now exploring every option that would allow me to stay here just a few more days. My time here has been nothing short of incredible and that is a GROSS understatement. No blog posts, pictures or even words can describe how amazing I feel here. It is purely the feelings I have…
I wake up later than normal again today because I am still not over whatever I “have”… but mind over matter and I promise myself I will beat it. I am sure it is a result of going non-stop since I arrived. Days filled with activities and nights filled with late dinners, great sights, and my sweet friends. I think Siena will provide me with much needed R & R but I still prefer my Rome and of course, my friends.
I allowed myself to lag a little longer today because I already hit all the “major” sites, so I was able to take my time getting out of my hotel. On the agenda today was Galleria Borghese. Carlo arranged the appointment and was impressed he did not have to give me directions. This area is much more than a Villa or Gallery, it is a beautiful park with several aspects… this is the place I had fallen in love with to run because the scenery is wonderful. As a result, I knew it well.
A BRIEF HISTORY LESSON ON GALLERIA BORGHESE:
I wake up later than normal again today because I am still not over whatever I “have”… but mind over matter and I promise myself I will beat it. I am sure it is a result of going non-stop since I arrived. Days filled with activities and nights filled with late dinners, great sights, and my sweet friends. I think Siena will provide me with much needed R & R but I still prefer my Rome and of course, my friends.
I allowed myself to lag a little longer today because I already hit all the “major” sites, so I was able to take my time getting out of my hotel. On the agenda today was Galleria Borghese. Carlo arranged the appointment and was impressed he did not have to give me directions. This area is much more than a Villa or Gallery, it is a beautiful park with several aspects… this is the place I had fallen in love with to run because the scenery is wonderful. As a result, I knew it well.
A BRIEF HISTORY LESSON ON GALLERIA BORGHESE:
The original sculptures and paintings in the Borghese Gallery date back to Cardinal Scipione's collection, the son of Ortensia Borghese - Paolo V's sister - and of Francesco Caffarelli, though subsequent events over the next three centuries entailing both losses and acquisition have left their mark.
Cardinal Scipion was drawn to any works of ancient, Renaissance and contemporary art which might re-evoke a new golden age. He was not particularly interested in medieval art, but passionately sought to acquire antique sculpture. But Cardinal Scipione was so ambitious that he promoted the creation of new sculptures and especially marble groups to rival antique works.
The statue of Pauline Bonaparte, executed by Canova between 1805 and 1808, has been in the villa since 1838. In 1807, Camillo Borghese sold Napoleon 154 statues, 160 busts, 170 bas-reliefs, 30 columns and various vases, which constitue the Borghese Collection in the Louvre. But already by the 1830s these gaps seem to have been filled by new finds from recent excavations and works recuperated from the cellars and various other Borghese residences.
Cardinal Scipion was drawn to any works of ancient, Renaissance and contemporary art which might re-evoke a new golden age. He was not particularly interested in medieval art, but passionately sought to acquire antique sculpture. But Cardinal Scipione was so ambitious that he promoted the creation of new sculptures and especially marble groups to rival antique works.
The statue of Pauline Bonaparte, executed by Canova between 1805 and 1808, has been in the villa since 1838. In 1807, Camillo Borghese sold Napoleon 154 statues, 160 busts, 170 bas-reliefs, 30 columns and various vases, which constitue the Borghese Collection in the Louvre. But already by the 1830s these gaps seem to have been filled by new finds from recent excavations and works recuperated from the cellars and various other Borghese residences.
Cardinal Scipione's collection of paintings was remarkable and was poetically described as early as 1613 by Scipione Francucci. In 1607, the Pope gave the Cardinal 107 paintings which had been confiscated from the painter Giuseppe Cesari, called the Cavalier d'Arpino. In the following year, Raphael's Deposition was secretely removed from the Baglioni Chapel in the church of S.Francesco in Perugia and transported to Rome. It was given to the Cardinal Scipione through a papal motu proprio.
In 1682, part of Olimpia Aldobrandini's inheritance entered the Borghese collection; it included works from the collections of Cardinal Salviati and Lucrezia d'Este.
In 1827 Prince Camillo bought Correggios' celebrated Danäe in Paris.
Okay there is your history lesson for the day… anyway, the gallery itself was INCREDIBLE. I think it was my favorite gallery so far because in one word, it is stunning. It is an old villa turned once owned by the famous Borghese family (see above and of course Google is always at your disposal). The painted walls, the architecture, and the BEAUTIFUL sculptures are beyond words. I learned each piece originally had a very precise placement for display based on what the artist/sculptor and owner intentions were. I never knew there was such a convoluted thought process involved with art. Nowadays we think if a picture, plant, or sculpture looks good in a particular area, we simply place it there, for no other reason than it looks good. Very little, if at all, do we have such reasoning for placement of our art.
You are allowed only two hours in the gallery, although I could have used three. I will never be able to name all the pieces or know their complete relevancies, however, just being in there and looking at all of the art and rooms, was unbelievable. This is one place everyone should see for themselves. Bellisima.
After the Galleria I go to the café in the park to meet Daniele… we have caffé and walk around, it was lovely… the only questionable part was when we went on the hunt to get an Italian cell phone for me. I literally dragged him around town, on foot, because of course I insisted we did not need to drive, for an hour and a half. The thing is, he was on a business call for a majority of our walk, so I am blindly leading him around and he is just following. I keep telling him I KNOW there is a Vodafone store nearby, but it was always “the next block”… Finally, when he got off the phone he realized what was going on and jokingly says, “I should have never followed you and we should have taken the car.” I responded, “well if you were not on the phone, maybe this could have been avoided.” We laughed and finally found a few places, in which he came in VERY handy and was a HUGE help… I would NEVER had known what to say or how to get what I was looking for. I probably would have left paying like 200 Euro for a phone without and minutes.
We never got a phone, but had fun trying… we walked back to the car and I bid Daniele farewell; however, not before learning a chocolate I gave him the night before had melted in his pocket and he didn’t discover it until his i-phone was covered in it. I felt pretty bad that my nice gesture went awry, but could not help laughing a bit… and now I will never be forgotten.
I go back to the hotel and just sit for a bit, as I tried to take it all in… literally, everything, Roma, as a whole… what I have done and seen, the AMAZING people I have met… everything. I think of ways to cancel my trip, stay in Roma, and continue this feeling. But as they say… they show must go on.
Just then I hop in the shower to get ready for my last evening with Emy and Adri. We go to a great restaurant… although different than the one they were going to take me to because apparently I was dressed too nice. I said “NONSENSE”… after all, I always dress in what I want, and I felt fine… but Emy and Adri were not having it.
We went to a great spot near Adri’s home and the food is great, too much of course, but buonisimo. Luca comes to say goodbye to me, which was so nice, he couldn’t stay long… but his effort was exactly what made him great. At dinner Adri hands me a small gift and handwritten letter, which melted my heart. Tutto en Italiano and one of the nicest gifts I have ever been given. It was not the actual gift, which were beautiful earrings Adri picked out for me… it was the time spent on this letter that accompanied them… Very touching.
After dinner we met “Alto” Luca for a drink, which ended up being going to a friend’s house for a bit. Everyone was very nice, although they did not speak much English; I give them credit for trying and nevertheless making me feel very welcomed. We did not stay long since I had to pack and let’s be honest, I am not the late nighter I used to be (luckily, neither is Adri).
When we arrive at my hotel I give mi amores BIG hugs and retreat to my room. I try to pack, finding it hard to do so; I REALLY don’t want to leave. I pull myself together and pack so I have very little to do in the morning. And be able to spend my final hours carefree to enjoyable.
I try and sleep… I hope you do too.
Buonanotte,
Me