Very late start this morning as I did not fall asleep as easily as I had hoped last night, nor did I sleep that hard.
When I finally get out, I walk for what seems like hours to Castel Santangelo but I love it. I did many things when I was here last year, but I missed this and the Jewish ghetto, which I vowed to see this year. Il Castel Sant'Angelo was Needless to say monumental, as it is filled with history:
"Built, as was the Elian bridge in front, by the Emperor Hadrian (117-138) as a Mausoleum for himself and his successors, it was completed by Antoninus Pius in 139. In 271, the Emperor Aurelian incorporated the pile into the defence system he designed: it lost its function as a tomb to become a fortress.
In 1277 it was occupied by Nicholas II who connected it to the Vatican by the famous corridor, a safety passage which runs along the top of the encircling wall of the Vatican. Hencefort, it remained under the control of the Popes who used it as a fortress, to impress, but also as a prison and a place for torture."
The best part was that it was not too busy or too hot.
The Jewish ghetto was a lot smaller than I anticipated. I am not exactly sure what I was expecting but it was not what I saw. In Firenze, there was the beautiful temple that doubled as a museum, maybe I was under the impression in Roma there would be something similar. And Maybe there is, but there was a children's concert going on, which I think was inside the temple, which is why it was closed. In any event, their little voices where adorable and made me happy.
I walk for a while longer, in and out of what seemed like undiscovered streets and stumble upon Etablì. As Massimo unlocked the door, I say how proud I am to have found the restaurant all by myself, naturally, he laughs. Max is sooooooooo sweet, we chatted for a while and I tell him i would see him later, as I planned to eat there sta notte. I wondered back to the hotel and went for a run.
After, as per normal, I showered and got ready for cena. I walked back to Etablì, well that was the plan anyway, yet somehow, I seemed to get lost, how do I keep managing this? As I show up about 30 minutes late to dinner, I apologize. Tranquile, va bene. To make me feel better, Max tells me it is hard even for Romans. Sweet, but unbelievable. I have on of the most fantastic waiters, Maurizio... He is patient and adorable, he respects my desire to refuse the english version of the menu but is happy to answer when I ask what something means. Normally, one would most likely get irritated with such behavior, or offer the English menu once again... Not him. It didn't matter because I tell him, "sono vegetariana e no piace funghi" everything else was fair game... I tell Maurizio to surprise me, which is exactly what he does. Pasta, baked... Too much, so good. He doesn't rush me or make me feel as if I am wasting his time, although I am the only person still eating, naturally. When I cannot take another bite, we discuss wrapping it to go, as I hate letting so much food go to waste and there are plenty of homeless to give it to. When he came back empty handed, we laugh at the fact he forgot to tell the bus boy I wanted to take it to go... No problem.
I stay for a while longer and enjoy the company before walking back. This time, I do not get lost... But I think "If my dad knew I was walking alone at this time... He would kill me". Needless to say, I did it anyway and he would be happy to know the one time I felt bothered by a passing car, the police was the next car and stopped to make sure I got home safe and I did.
I wash up and drift off.
Xoxo, Me
Tuesday, June 7, 2011
Sunday, June 5, 2011
May 30
My mom was right, getting lost is the best way to find your way. I felt my day was all about getting lost, yet, always finding my way back. I walked to two phone stores, because how silly of me to think all my gadgets would have one carrier. After having trouble even finding the store, I discover I have forgotten my passport, uffff... Which is needed to obtain the SIM card for my iPad. Yup, I walk all the way back to my hotel, where Serena greets me with anticipation of my purchase... When I have to tell her I was unsuccessful the first time around. I grab my passport and return to the store... However, it was the most pleasant experience I think I ever had at a cell phone store... Well, two phone stores. I got my phone and iPad working without lifting a finger or raising my voice. Take note, Verizon.
I walk around a while, reminiscing about things I did last year in the same places, smiling because it felt as if I never left... An incredible feeling. Only this time I can understand a lot more Italian. The best part is people think I can't and proceed to talk about me because they assume I have no clue what they are saying. But this is probably a good thing because what they say, is certainly not meant to be heard by the person they are talking about.
I plan to meet Adri and Andrea in the afternoon, however, traffic in Rome is worse than Los Angeles, so we decide it is time I learn to take the bus. Adri gives me directions, and really... How hard could it be? Well, today there was a strike, which meant only 10% of buses were running, so apparently harder than I thought. It was only when I realized I passed the Colosseo three times, I obviously was doing something wrong...
When I was able to finally admit defeat, I had to tell Adri. I felt so bad because my stupidity resulted in her having to pack Andrea up and sit in wonderful Roma traffic to get to me. Of course, she was more than happy to do it... At least that was what she led me to believe. When she arrived, we ran to each other, as if we were in a movie, and hugged and hugged some more. What an inedible woman, we were so happy to see each other... Then there was Andrea, un bambino with cheeks that grandmas all over the world would have a field day with. He is happy and a flirt... Hmm, where in the world does he get that from... Speaking of which... After we fed Andrea, took a coffee and walked while we gossiped; we met Emy. Emy, always gracious and even more entertaining. He is still the same pazzo with a big heart, a lot of love to give and as sleep deprived as I am. It was so incredible to be with them again... I feel fortunate and happy to call them my friends.
We stayed together for a little longer before Andrea was ready to call it a day. They drove me back to the hotel and I changed for my run. As I stepped out to run, my legs instinctually took me to The Villa Borghese. Bellissima.... Different paths, different flowers, but the same amazing feeling. It was like a contact high once I touched the ground, an incredible experience. I decided this year I would challenge myself to run the Spanish Steps a total of 10 times by the end of my stay in Roma. Today, I did twice... And I have to tell you, it is way harder than it looks, especially after running for 45 minutes before. But I did it and I was very happy when it was over.
After a much needed shower, it was late, of course, because I, well, just because, it was. I walked to find what I would have for dinner and remembered a little restaurant I had walked past several times this year as well as last. So, I finally decided to give it a try... I hadn't had pizza yet so I felt it was only right to do so. Alexander, the owner's son was fantastic... Yes, he looked like the cliché Italian restaurant owner, very different from Lorenzo and Rodrigo but even so, he was polite and made me laugh... Or wait, was it the fact I was eating dinner to Shaggy's "Wasn't Me"... Non lo so. But you tell me, do you think there something wrong with that? Of course, I say something to Alex and he is suddenly mesmerized by my bluntness; he tells me this is very "infrequent" of tourists... But understands the moment I say my grandfather is from Sicily.
I walk home with a smile on my face, which is permanently across my face, and a "doggy bag" in hand. As I climb the stairs to my room, I allow the madness of my day play through my head as I giggle. I wash-up, climb into bed and slowly drift to sleep.
Amazing day.
Baci a voi,
Me
I walk around a while, reminiscing about things I did last year in the same places, smiling because it felt as if I never left... An incredible feeling. Only this time I can understand a lot more Italian. The best part is people think I can't and proceed to talk about me because they assume I have no clue what they are saying. But this is probably a good thing because what they say, is certainly not meant to be heard by the person they are talking about.
I plan to meet Adri and Andrea in the afternoon, however, traffic in Rome is worse than Los Angeles, so we decide it is time I learn to take the bus. Adri gives me directions, and really... How hard could it be? Well, today there was a strike, which meant only 10% of buses were running, so apparently harder than I thought. It was only when I realized I passed the Colosseo three times, I obviously was doing something wrong...
When I was able to finally admit defeat, I had to tell Adri. I felt so bad because my stupidity resulted in her having to pack Andrea up and sit in wonderful Roma traffic to get to me. Of course, she was more than happy to do it... At least that was what she led me to believe. When she arrived, we ran to each other, as if we were in a movie, and hugged and hugged some more. What an inedible woman, we were so happy to see each other... Then there was Andrea, un bambino with cheeks that grandmas all over the world would have a field day with. He is happy and a flirt... Hmm, where in the world does he get that from... Speaking of which... After we fed Andrea, took a coffee and walked while we gossiped; we met Emy. Emy, always gracious and even more entertaining. He is still the same pazzo with a big heart, a lot of love to give and as sleep deprived as I am. It was so incredible to be with them again... I feel fortunate and happy to call them my friends.
We stayed together for a little longer before Andrea was ready to call it a day. They drove me back to the hotel and I changed for my run. As I stepped out to run, my legs instinctually took me to The Villa Borghese. Bellissima.... Different paths, different flowers, but the same amazing feeling. It was like a contact high once I touched the ground, an incredible experience. I decided this year I would challenge myself to run the Spanish Steps a total of 10 times by the end of my stay in Roma. Today, I did twice... And I have to tell you, it is way harder than it looks, especially after running for 45 minutes before. But I did it and I was very happy when it was over.
After a much needed shower, it was late, of course, because I, well, just because, it was. I walked to find what I would have for dinner and remembered a little restaurant I had walked past several times this year as well as last. So, I finally decided to give it a try... I hadn't had pizza yet so I felt it was only right to do so. Alexander, the owner's son was fantastic... Yes, he looked like the cliché Italian restaurant owner, very different from Lorenzo and Rodrigo but even so, he was polite and made me laugh... Or wait, was it the fact I was eating dinner to Shaggy's "Wasn't Me"... Non lo so. But you tell me, do you think there something wrong with that? Of course, I say something to Alex and he is suddenly mesmerized by my bluntness; he tells me this is very "infrequent" of tourists... But understands the moment I say my grandfather is from Sicily.
I walk home with a smile on my face, which is permanently across my face, and a "doggy bag" in hand. As I climb the stairs to my room, I allow the madness of my day play through my head as I giggle. I wash-up, climb into bed and slowly drift to sleep.
Amazing day.
Baci a voi,
Me
May 28 & 29... I am NOT a Light Traveler, Get Over It!
I am normally a first-flight-of-the-day or red-eye traveler. I like to get to my destination at a time I can have the whole day to be wherever it is I am going. This time, I ventured out into the world of afternoon travel and I mean late afternoon. As a result, I was able to get a run in, stop for coffee, and even swiffer my floors... It was quite satisfying I have to admit. Not having to rush around (well a relative statement for me) was pretty nice.
When I got to the airport one thought stuck in my mind like a bad Katie Perry song... Would my bag pass the weight limit or would I be that girl rummaging through her suitcase trying to meticulously shift items around so it would be in compliance? Only time would tell... I nervously approached skycap with a smile (it is true what they say... A smile goes a long way). My skycap friend told me I had to check-in at the counter because I was flying internationally. To my surprise, he lugged my bags to the counter for me, the woman at the ticket counter was shockingly pleasant and my 2 lb. overweight bag went through, without the astronomical fee of $125! Wait... What was going on here? Was I actually having an easy airport experience? Naturally, I was skeptical! But in effort to stay positive, I convinced myself I was finally catching a break...
Well that was until my carry-on bag was selected to be inspected... Twice. "Ma'am, do you have any sharp objects in your bag?"... Sharp objects?!?! Okay, 2 thoughts went through my head... the devil in me wanted to say, "Oh shit, did I forget to take out my machete before I left home? Oops!" But not wanting to have a Gaylord Focker moment, I decided opening my sarcastic mouth would probably not have been the best option in that instance. So the angel in me won the round. For once in my life I filtered what came out of my mouth and simply said, "I have a pen?" He smiled and said he needs to x-ray it one more time. As he walked toward me for the second time, I sighed, ready to be on my way... Nope, he proceeded to rummage through my bags another time as if something magically appeared since the first time. I was biting my tongue so hard because I literally had about 6 smart-ass remarks I was holding in... Ugh, and they all went to waste; luckily, I wrote them down for future use.
Finally, after inspecting my mascara tube for the hidden bounty hunter tools I was smuggling, I was free to roam the airport. However, I sensed his resistance in letting me do so. Because naturally all 5'3 1/2" of me could take on airport security personnel without event breaking a sweat. Upon my arrival to the gate, I realized there was a good chance I might possibly considered a flight risk, which would put a damper on future travel.
The first flight was short and pretty painless, discounting the group of douchebags who occupied the two rows behind me. Aside from their obnoxious banter, I couldn't help but be fixated on one of them in particular. I don't if it was the overwhelming smell of beer that seemed to be dripping from his pores or the 2 foot plush dolphin he was playing puppet master to. Whatever the reason was, I was not interested... All I wanted was to see the back of my eyelids, something it seemed we all desperately missed the last two nights.
The second flight was long and would have been painless if it went to plan... Find my seat, stow my baggage, pop an ambien and wake up in Roma. Sounded glorious and the plan was executed perfectly minus the mad scientist I got stuck sitting next to. He was entertaining for a while but after 15 minutes of his wackiness, I had to stop him before I was past the point of no return. More so, anyone who knows me knows I am not a good flyer and his chatter was not exactly what I would have described as relaxing. Shortly after, luckily he proceeded to fall asleep... As did I. Some peace, thank you! I was out for most of the flight and it was fantastic.
As I arrive in Germany, I am happy to bid Sir Nutzo farewell. I walk to customs and proceed with no problem, in fact, the security guards there really liked me and were extremely helpful. I arrive to my gate and board my flight; short and painless. And I finally sat next to a wonderful couple from Grosseto, which is in Tuscany. Anna didn't even flinch when without hesitation I grabbed her hand as we made a bumpy landing. They had just finished a Swiss vacation with 5 other couples, and I got a glimpse at what I hoped my future would be like. As we all walked to baggage claim, I felt an overwhelming feeling that #1, my bags were not there and #2, I was so out of it I accidentally boarded a flight to India. Needless to say, neither was true as I made my way out to my taxi. Like in the states, Sunday is high traffic from weekenders' travel. As a result, the ride to my hotel was excruciatingly long but it didn't matter, as I was just happy to be back in Italy.
When I arrived at my hotel, I was greeted by Serena and Marco. A young, hip, and super sweet couple. The hotel was a very new and they were adamant about keeping their quant B&B clean and personable and their guests happy and satisfied. I knew at that moment over the next 6 days I would become friends with them.
When I got settled, Serena and Marco recommended I try the one vegetarian restaurant in Roma, which is owned by their friend, Simone. I walked, of course, got lost, of course, and found my way back... Of course. I was warmly greeted and it was nice to be amongst what Simone said was the "10%" Italian vegetarian population. My meal was not great, but the dessert was something to write about. A white chocolate strawberry mousse that was heavenly, I am drooling for it as I type. Nevertheless, the service was wonderful and I had a lovely dinner.
After dinner, Francesco meets me for a drink. It was wonderful to see him and catch up. I love being in Italy!
Buonanotte,
Me
When I got to the airport one thought stuck in my mind like a bad Katie Perry song... Would my bag pass the weight limit or would I be that girl rummaging through her suitcase trying to meticulously shift items around so it would be in compliance? Only time would tell... I nervously approached skycap with a smile (it is true what they say... A smile goes a long way). My skycap friend told me I had to check-in at the counter because I was flying internationally. To my surprise, he lugged my bags to the counter for me, the woman at the ticket counter was shockingly pleasant and my 2 lb. overweight bag went through, without the astronomical fee of $125! Wait... What was going on here? Was I actually having an easy airport experience? Naturally, I was skeptical! But in effort to stay positive, I convinced myself I was finally catching a break...
Well that was until my carry-on bag was selected to be inspected... Twice. "Ma'am, do you have any sharp objects in your bag?"... Sharp objects?!?! Okay, 2 thoughts went through my head... the devil in me wanted to say, "Oh shit, did I forget to take out my machete before I left home? Oops!" But not wanting to have a Gaylord Focker moment, I decided opening my sarcastic mouth would probably not have been the best option in that instance. So the angel in me won the round. For once in my life I filtered what came out of my mouth and simply said, "I have a pen?" He smiled and said he needs to x-ray it one more time. As he walked toward me for the second time, I sighed, ready to be on my way... Nope, he proceeded to rummage through my bags another time as if something magically appeared since the first time. I was biting my tongue so hard because I literally had about 6 smart-ass remarks I was holding in... Ugh, and they all went to waste; luckily, I wrote them down for future use.
Finally, after inspecting my mascara tube for the hidden bounty hunter tools I was smuggling, I was free to roam the airport. However, I sensed his resistance in letting me do so. Because naturally all 5'3 1/2" of me could take on airport security personnel without event breaking a sweat. Upon my arrival to the gate, I realized there was a good chance I might possibly considered a flight risk, which would put a damper on future travel.
The first flight was short and pretty painless, discounting the group of douchebags who occupied the two rows behind me. Aside from their obnoxious banter, I couldn't help but be fixated on one of them in particular. I don't if it was the overwhelming smell of beer that seemed to be dripping from his pores or the 2 foot plush dolphin he was playing puppet master to. Whatever the reason was, I was not interested... All I wanted was to see the back of my eyelids, something it seemed we all desperately missed the last two nights.
The second flight was long and would have been painless if it went to plan... Find my seat, stow my baggage, pop an ambien and wake up in Roma. Sounded glorious and the plan was executed perfectly minus the mad scientist I got stuck sitting next to. He was entertaining for a while but after 15 minutes of his wackiness, I had to stop him before I was past the point of no return. More so, anyone who knows me knows I am not a good flyer and his chatter was not exactly what I would have described as relaxing. Shortly after, luckily he proceeded to fall asleep... As did I. Some peace, thank you! I was out for most of the flight and it was fantastic.
As I arrive in Germany, I am happy to bid Sir Nutzo farewell. I walk to customs and proceed with no problem, in fact, the security guards there really liked me and were extremely helpful. I arrive to my gate and board my flight; short and painless. And I finally sat next to a wonderful couple from Grosseto, which is in Tuscany. Anna didn't even flinch when without hesitation I grabbed her hand as we made a bumpy landing. They had just finished a Swiss vacation with 5 other couples, and I got a glimpse at what I hoped my future would be like. As we all walked to baggage claim, I felt an overwhelming feeling that #1, my bags were not there and #2, I was so out of it I accidentally boarded a flight to India. Needless to say, neither was true as I made my way out to my taxi. Like in the states, Sunday is high traffic from weekenders' travel. As a result, the ride to my hotel was excruciatingly long but it didn't matter, as I was just happy to be back in Italy.
When I arrived at my hotel, I was greeted by Serena and Marco. A young, hip, and super sweet couple. The hotel was a very new and they were adamant about keeping their quant B&B clean and personable and their guests happy and satisfied. I knew at that moment over the next 6 days I would become friends with them.
When I got settled, Serena and Marco recommended I try the one vegetarian restaurant in Roma, which is owned by their friend, Simone. I walked, of course, got lost, of course, and found my way back... Of course. I was warmly greeted and it was nice to be amongst what Simone said was the "10%" Italian vegetarian population. My meal was not great, but the dessert was something to write about. A white chocolate strawberry mousse that was heavenly, I am drooling for it as I type. Nevertheless, the service was wonderful and I had a lovely dinner.
After dinner, Francesco meets me for a drink. It was wonderful to see him and catch up. I love being in Italy!
Buonanotte,
Me
Saturday, May 21, 2011
And So It Begins, 7 Days & Counting
Italia Part 2... I'm back! Bigger, better and certainly braver.
Follow me as I share what are sure to be fabulous stories from my adventures.
Stay tuned!
xoxo-Ali
Follow me as I share what are sure to be fabulous stories from my adventures.
Stay tuned!
xoxo-Ali
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Siena... June 6, 2010
I wake up this morning about 9 am, hoping to be in Roma… I quickly say to myself, BASTA! I am Siena, ITALY and I am very lucky for this, everything is beautiful, the weather is hot but amazing, the wine is best in the world… I get into the shower to wash the negativity off and go downstairs to see what my hotel is serving for breakfast. Considering I have not eaten breakfast, well, for practically my entire life… I was pleasantly surprised with the variety. I eat some yogurt and muesli, sipped my caffé and planned my day.
Although Siena is not a big city, there is plenty to see and wine to drink. I decide to just start walking and chose where I want to go when I get there. I end up at Il Campo, go to the Civic Museum and climb the tower. As my video shows, there are a lot of steps, do not get me wrong… however, this one man came out sweating as if he had just finished the Boston marathon. I am telling you it was crazy… not even little Julius complained during his climb and completed it on his own two little feet.
The view from the tower was incredible; it overlooked the entire city and then some. The lush landscaping of Tuscany was absolutely incredible. I know I start to sound like a broken record but it is the truth. I breathe in the air and just look out around me… the beauty, the history. After about 20 minutes, I walk down to the museum and it is fabulous, smaller than any in Roma but no less stunning. Unlike the Massimo museum or the Vatican, the Civic Museo only took me about an hour and a half to get through.
There were two special exhibits going on, fairly modern… you can see the colors and forms are more vibrant and “loud”… very different form the historical masterpieces I have been seeing, yet, I cannot help but like the change a bit.
When I am “museum-ed out”, I explore the city, look at the shops, pass through the historical sites, stop for wine tastings and embrace my surroundings. I decide not to go into anymore basilicas or museums today and take the rest of the day to roam around and get lost inside the walls. Basically, I listened to Siena, it was amazing. I returned to my room and changed for my run. My runs in Siena, although at times force me to weave in between people, are always peaceful. The only thing is that Siena is ALL hills, unpaved hills, so not a very easy course for me. However, I love the challenge. After my run, I shower and get dressed to hit the town, okay, to stroll the Siena streets, but in Siena, that is hitting the town.
I walk and walk trying to learn the streets that I will be calling my stomping ground for the week. I learn the one thing Siena does not lack is couples… it is a very romantic and very sweet, but of can be a bit dispiriting for a single girl. However, to lift me up I do what I do best: shop, eat gelato and drink wine, Perfetto!
I walk around trying to find somewhere I can enjoy a glass of wine and write… I settle on a place that looks “hip” and Ayman and Juan Paulo welcome me with wine and songs; they are adorable, friendly and infectious. Apparently this place serves much more than food and drinks. I find out JP is the singer and entertainer of the group, he is one of the owners, who always wearing a boyish smile and on drink duty. Ayman is sweet, smart and very quiet; he is a student from Toronto getting his master’s degree in political science in Siena.
When I arrive, I am the only person at the restaurant. When I leave, the small patio is occupied with locals and loyal drinkers. Ayman tells me this is not the typical Siena eatery, with the Heineken umbrellas and laid back approach, it obviously has the vibe of a new age.
When I leave the boys I walk the streets at night… I come across a street blocked off, sort of like you see in the movies. Rows of tables filled with wine, food, and people line the street, I can only describe it as something you would see in the middle ages… hello, photo opt! As I am taking a picture, I am approached by one of the guys, Kiko, who selflessly invites me to come and join them… he doesn’t speak much English, I don’t speak much Italian… it is perfect. I accept his offer and what I learn is astonishing.
This night is the night when the Contrada finds out if they will be chosen to participate in the famous Palio. There are 17 Contradas and only 10 are chosen. Their Contrada, the Civetta (the Owl) has not won the Palio in 30 years, so this was a very big year for them. Their leader gave speeches, they sang their anthem, and drank… a lot! It was one of the coolest things I have ever seen, they were like one big happy family. They fed me, poured endless wine, told me stories, and made me laugh… I later find out being invited to this is a very big deal, so THANK YOU! Simone, the ring leader wanted to tell me the popular things they do in Siena… he was a character… amazing. The best part was when I tell them my family is from Bagheria, Sicily; they quickly whisper and joke about how they worry about my dad… I didn’t quite understand, yet…
After dinner a video was being shown, I watched for a bit and said endless amount of “Grazies” before saying goodnight. When I got back to my hotel I received a text from Simone saying they had a small present for me… what? A present, they had already done so much, I couldn’t think of anything else they could give me. Boy was I wrong.
Simone and Duccio with guitar in hand, serenaded me. Yes, one knee at the hotel window, singing Italian and English songs to me, it was something I cannot even describe, I was breathless. That was when I fell in love with Lucio Battisti… BELLISSIMO. We walked for a bit talking and when I could barely keep my eyes open, they walked me to my hotel where I said goodnight and drifted off to sleep.
A simply wonderful end to the day that started so rocky. Brava.
Baci a voi,
Me
Although Siena is not a big city, there is plenty to see and wine to drink. I decide to just start walking and chose where I want to go when I get there. I end up at Il Campo, go to the Civic Museum and climb the tower. As my video shows, there are a lot of steps, do not get me wrong… however, this one man came out sweating as if he had just finished the Boston marathon. I am telling you it was crazy… not even little Julius complained during his climb and completed it on his own two little feet.
The view from the tower was incredible; it overlooked the entire city and then some. The lush landscaping of Tuscany was absolutely incredible. I know I start to sound like a broken record but it is the truth. I breathe in the air and just look out around me… the beauty, the history. After about 20 minutes, I walk down to the museum and it is fabulous, smaller than any in Roma but no less stunning. Unlike the Massimo museum or the Vatican, the Civic Museo only took me about an hour and a half to get through.
There were two special exhibits going on, fairly modern… you can see the colors and forms are more vibrant and “loud”… very different form the historical masterpieces I have been seeing, yet, I cannot help but like the change a bit.
When I am “museum-ed out”, I explore the city, look at the shops, pass through the historical sites, stop for wine tastings and embrace my surroundings. I decide not to go into anymore basilicas or museums today and take the rest of the day to roam around and get lost inside the walls. Basically, I listened to Siena, it was amazing. I returned to my room and changed for my run. My runs in Siena, although at times force me to weave in between people, are always peaceful. The only thing is that Siena is ALL hills, unpaved hills, so not a very easy course for me. However, I love the challenge. After my run, I shower and get dressed to hit the town, okay, to stroll the Siena streets, but in Siena, that is hitting the town.
I walk and walk trying to learn the streets that I will be calling my stomping ground for the week. I learn the one thing Siena does not lack is couples… it is a very romantic and very sweet, but of can be a bit dispiriting for a single girl. However, to lift me up I do what I do best: shop, eat gelato and drink wine, Perfetto!
I walk around trying to find somewhere I can enjoy a glass of wine and write… I settle on a place that looks “hip” and Ayman and Juan Paulo welcome me with wine and songs; they are adorable, friendly and infectious. Apparently this place serves much more than food and drinks. I find out JP is the singer and entertainer of the group, he is one of the owners, who always wearing a boyish smile and on drink duty. Ayman is sweet, smart and very quiet; he is a student from Toronto getting his master’s degree in political science in Siena.
When I arrive, I am the only person at the restaurant. When I leave, the small patio is occupied with locals and loyal drinkers. Ayman tells me this is not the typical Siena eatery, with the Heineken umbrellas and laid back approach, it obviously has the vibe of a new age.
When I leave the boys I walk the streets at night… I come across a street blocked off, sort of like you see in the movies. Rows of tables filled with wine, food, and people line the street, I can only describe it as something you would see in the middle ages… hello, photo opt! As I am taking a picture, I am approached by one of the guys, Kiko, who selflessly invites me to come and join them… he doesn’t speak much English, I don’t speak much Italian… it is perfect. I accept his offer and what I learn is astonishing.
This night is the night when the Contrada finds out if they will be chosen to participate in the famous Palio. There are 17 Contradas and only 10 are chosen. Their Contrada, the Civetta (the Owl) has not won the Palio in 30 years, so this was a very big year for them. Their leader gave speeches, they sang their anthem, and drank… a lot! It was one of the coolest things I have ever seen, they were like one big happy family. They fed me, poured endless wine, told me stories, and made me laugh… I later find out being invited to this is a very big deal, so THANK YOU! Simone, the ring leader wanted to tell me the popular things they do in Siena… he was a character… amazing. The best part was when I tell them my family is from Bagheria, Sicily; they quickly whisper and joke about how they worry about my dad… I didn’t quite understand, yet…
After dinner a video was being shown, I watched for a bit and said endless amount of “Grazies” before saying goodnight. When I got back to my hotel I received a text from Simone saying they had a small present for me… what? A present, they had already done so much, I couldn’t think of anything else they could give me. Boy was I wrong.
Simone and Duccio with guitar in hand, serenaded me. Yes, one knee at the hotel window, singing Italian and English songs to me, it was something I cannot even describe, I was breathless. That was when I fell in love with Lucio Battisti… BELLISSIMO. We walked for a bit talking and when I could barely keep my eyes open, they walked me to my hotel where I said goodnight and drifted off to sleep.
A simply wonderful end to the day that started so rocky. Brava.
Baci a voi,
Me
Monday, June 21, 2010
Last day in Roma... Off to Siena... June 5, 2010
This morning I woke up at about 8:45 feeling very lethargic. Saying goodbye to my friends, to Roma, was not going to be easy. I put myself together, and took one more outing in the city. In doing so, I finally bought an Italian phone because I needed to stay in touch con mi Papa e tutto mi amicos. At 11:30 I bid arrevaderci to my beautiful hotel only to get invited for un caffé by Massimo, the hotel manager. “Grazie Massimo, pero mi amicos (then I switch to English) are coming to pick me up. To my surprise, he graciously invited them too. As Emy and Adri pulled up, he met them at the car, extended the invitation, and told the doorman and Carlo, to have the car parked until we were done.
We sat in the beautiful lounge to enjoy iced caffé (today is VERY hot in Roma) and a variety of biscotti. I never in my life experienced such incredible hospitality… Massimo, Carlo, Andrea, everyone at the hotel, in Roma, embraced yours truly with the most open of arms.
When we finished, I gave my lovely “family” hugs and kisses as they loaded my 18 ton suitcases in Emy’s car. And we were off… Emy and Adri gave me un libro on the “Ricostruzione” of Roma. Naturally, a children’s book, so funny, so amazing, SOOOOO Emy! See, he is a real life Peter Pan so the book was perfect.
Before the station we made a quick stop at Emy’s friend, Bebe’s, clothing boutique. I tried on a few things... Didn't buy, although I am still dreaming about the top I tried on. I told Bebe, I was only at the first place of my "tour" and at the end, I would see how much I had spent, and if allowed, I would call him and have him mail it to me! He agreed and was more than happy to oblige. Eventually the time came and the inevitable happened… We said bye to Bebe and made our way to the Roma train station.
I quickly grew anxious because the thought of saying goodbye to these two people hurt my heart. Never in my dreams would have thought I could feel so close to two people in such a short time. But I did, "du (no due en Roma) persone incredibili!
The train station was a zoo, which I guess was fitting since Emy said the train I was taking was like a "cattle truck"... As if I was not anxious enough, he painted an unbearable image of my first experience on the train or TRENO. I had absolutely no idea what to do when I got there. It was total chaos, no information booth or direction just a looming clock ticking as the time dwindled down… we stood in what we thought was the right line and did all we could, wait. Only Adri could make such a horrible situation better by opening the Lindt chocolate bar I had given her. It was like she knew what to do in such a time of need… like she could read my mind. Stellar move Adriana, brava.
After a little over a half of an hour, we got to the front of the line and the information we needed, and for a moment, I felt a great sense of release. If Adri had not been with me to talk to the man at the ticket counter and Emy to lug my bags, I would have been crying in the corner, mugged or dead. I closed my eyes made a mental picture of this "what if" and immediately started sweating. Of course they insisted on walking me all the way to the train, right down to loading my bags to my seats, I love them! They got me settled, and at that instant the tears started to flow... I had an overwhelming sense of emptiness as we said our final goodbye. I waved from the window until they were out of sight. When I sat back down, I cried for 15 minutes, thinking what a mistake I had made leaving...
As I sit on the train journaling from my BlackBerry, I am still sad, I am still teary-eyed but my adventure moves on, and although I know I will meet plenty of people, I will have true friends in Emy and Adri. And as I have learned (Miss Borden), true friends are just that, no matter where in the world we are, we will always be close and have each other.
I close my eyes for a bit and try to relax. The train ride is not too long but I had to change trains, which was not my favorite thing to do for obvious reasons. However, Siena is not a “hub”, therefore there are limited direct trains. I make the switch and when I arrive at the Siena station, I began walking to my hotel, after about a minute, I hail a cab. I have NO idea what I was thinking when I believed I could lug my bags to a place I had never been with no problem. Yes, if I had packed like a normal traveler, maybe… but since I packed enough for a small village; it was not going to happen. More so, it was all uphill, I am truly crazy I thought to myself as I chuckled in the back seat of the cab during out 5 minute drive to Hotel Minvera.
I checked in and was hustled to my room, and when I got there I immediately started to cry. Maybe it was because I was totally spoiled in Rome with people, places and friends (now family), or maybe because now… I was truly alone. My comfort zone was gone, no Emy, Adri or warm hotel staff… Carlo! Just Rita, the owner of the hotel (I think), who looks like the Italian Tina Fey (sort of). She is a bit sassy and short, not overly warm but not rude. She calls for the bellhop who reminded me of Emilio, the butler in Mr. Deeds. The one who is “very very sneaky”… because that was exactly how this guy was… he was ALWAYS there… out of nowhere, he would just appear… he was very very sneaky. He was harmless, but just in case, I would take pictures of my things when I left the room. So if he came in when I was gone to, oh I don’t know… try on my underwear, I would know! Of course, everything was always like I left it and I was being completely paranoid… he just really liked me!
Anyway… the room had no frills and was a little “older”. But I tell myself it is a “classic”. In reality, I am being an ass, it had everything I needed; it was very clean, spacious and extremely close to everything. I think this was where I became culture shocked and all I could do was cry, cry and cry… my first official breakdown of my life in Italia. I will be honest; it took everything inside of me to not take the first train out of there and back to Rome, to a week ago…
I cry for about 20 minutes in my room and go into the bathroom, splash water on my face, realize crying does nothing for my attractiveness, and decide to get out, explore and calm down. So I get dressed up and I take myself to dinner; I go downstairs and ask Tina where she would recommend. Even though she had a few options I decided to not go with any of them. Why? Because when I asked her where to go and told her I wanted a place with NO tourists, apparently I wasn’t clear. She did not absorb the question; it was like she answered before giving it any thought, or as if she knew what I was going to ask before I finished asking. Her hasty response led me to believe the following things: 1) she sends every guest of the hotel to these places; or 2) these are the closest restaurants to the hotel. In any event, I chose to go with my own find and if it sucked at least I would not resent Tina.
I went to a little restaurant that seemed local and very quaint. I sit alone, still crying, but desperately trying to stop because the last thing I want to do is ruin someone else’s dinner with my tears. More so, I think I had snot dripping out of my nose, which I found out does NOT make good for working up one’s appetite. I try to relax and when I do, I think it may have been too late. I quickly notice the couple next to me leave without dessert, I can’t help but wonder if my whaling was what caused them to get gelato on the go. Anyway I pulled it together long enough to order pasta with smoked salmon, the one and only time I ate salmon on the trip, and I know why… I had only a few bites, drank wine for dinner, and just moved on. Just as I was finishing up, I met a couple soon-to-be married and they were… interesting… a mail-order bride arrangement, internet love. Regardless, they were very nice and enjoyable to talk to, which was a nice distraction from my thoughts.
When I bid them farewell I decided to walk the streets a bit and eventually found my way back to the Bates Motel… I kid; it was more than adequate and very clean, just bare.
I washed up and drifted to sleep, I hope you all had a great day.
Baci,
Me
We sat in the beautiful lounge to enjoy iced caffé (today is VERY hot in Roma) and a variety of biscotti. I never in my life experienced such incredible hospitality… Massimo, Carlo, Andrea, everyone at the hotel, in Roma, embraced yours truly with the most open of arms.
When we finished, I gave my lovely “family” hugs and kisses as they loaded my 18 ton suitcases in Emy’s car. And we were off… Emy and Adri gave me un libro on the “Ricostruzione” of Roma. Naturally, a children’s book, so funny, so amazing, SOOOOO Emy! See, he is a real life Peter Pan so the book was perfect.
Before the station we made a quick stop at Emy’s friend, Bebe’s, clothing boutique. I tried on a few things... Didn't buy, although I am still dreaming about the top I tried on. I told Bebe, I was only at the first place of my "tour" and at the end, I would see how much I had spent, and if allowed, I would call him and have him mail it to me! He agreed and was more than happy to oblige. Eventually the time came and the inevitable happened… We said bye to Bebe and made our way to the Roma train station.
I quickly grew anxious because the thought of saying goodbye to these two people hurt my heart. Never in my dreams would have thought I could feel so close to two people in such a short time. But I did, "du (no due en Roma) persone incredibili!
The train station was a zoo, which I guess was fitting since Emy said the train I was taking was like a "cattle truck"... As if I was not anxious enough, he painted an unbearable image of my first experience on the train or TRENO. I had absolutely no idea what to do when I got there. It was total chaos, no information booth or direction just a looming clock ticking as the time dwindled down… we stood in what we thought was the right line and did all we could, wait. Only Adri could make such a horrible situation better by opening the Lindt chocolate bar I had given her. It was like she knew what to do in such a time of need… like she could read my mind. Stellar move Adriana, brava.
After a little over a half of an hour, we got to the front of the line and the information we needed, and for a moment, I felt a great sense of release. If Adri had not been with me to talk to the man at the ticket counter and Emy to lug my bags, I would have been crying in the corner, mugged or dead. I closed my eyes made a mental picture of this "what if" and immediately started sweating. Of course they insisted on walking me all the way to the train, right down to loading my bags to my seats, I love them! They got me settled, and at that instant the tears started to flow... I had an overwhelming sense of emptiness as we said our final goodbye. I waved from the window until they were out of sight. When I sat back down, I cried for 15 minutes, thinking what a mistake I had made leaving...
As I sit on the train journaling from my BlackBerry, I am still sad, I am still teary-eyed but my adventure moves on, and although I know I will meet plenty of people, I will have true friends in Emy and Adri. And as I have learned (Miss Borden), true friends are just that, no matter where in the world we are, we will always be close and have each other.
I close my eyes for a bit and try to relax. The train ride is not too long but I had to change trains, which was not my favorite thing to do for obvious reasons. However, Siena is not a “hub”, therefore there are limited direct trains. I make the switch and when I arrive at the Siena station, I began walking to my hotel, after about a minute, I hail a cab. I have NO idea what I was thinking when I believed I could lug my bags to a place I had never been with no problem. Yes, if I had packed like a normal traveler, maybe… but since I packed enough for a small village; it was not going to happen. More so, it was all uphill, I am truly crazy I thought to myself as I chuckled in the back seat of the cab during out 5 minute drive to Hotel Minvera.
I checked in and was hustled to my room, and when I got there I immediately started to cry. Maybe it was because I was totally spoiled in Rome with people, places and friends (now family), or maybe because now… I was truly alone. My comfort zone was gone, no Emy, Adri or warm hotel staff… Carlo! Just Rita, the owner of the hotel (I think), who looks like the Italian Tina Fey (sort of). She is a bit sassy and short, not overly warm but not rude. She calls for the bellhop who reminded me of Emilio, the butler in Mr. Deeds. The one who is “very very sneaky”… because that was exactly how this guy was… he was ALWAYS there… out of nowhere, he would just appear… he was very very sneaky. He was harmless, but just in case, I would take pictures of my things when I left the room. So if he came in when I was gone to, oh I don’t know… try on my underwear, I would know! Of course, everything was always like I left it and I was being completely paranoid… he just really liked me!
Anyway… the room had no frills and was a little “older”. But I tell myself it is a “classic”. In reality, I am being an ass, it had everything I needed; it was very clean, spacious and extremely close to everything. I think this was where I became culture shocked and all I could do was cry, cry and cry… my first official breakdown of my life in Italia. I will be honest; it took everything inside of me to not take the first train out of there and back to Rome, to a week ago…
I cry for about 20 minutes in my room and go into the bathroom, splash water on my face, realize crying does nothing for my attractiveness, and decide to get out, explore and calm down. So I get dressed up and I take myself to dinner; I go downstairs and ask Tina where she would recommend. Even though she had a few options I decided to not go with any of them. Why? Because when I asked her where to go and told her I wanted a place with NO tourists, apparently I wasn’t clear. She did not absorb the question; it was like she answered before giving it any thought, or as if she knew what I was going to ask before I finished asking. Her hasty response led me to believe the following things: 1) she sends every guest of the hotel to these places; or 2) these are the closest restaurants to the hotel. In any event, I chose to go with my own find and if it sucked at least I would not resent Tina.
I went to a little restaurant that seemed local and very quaint. I sit alone, still crying, but desperately trying to stop because the last thing I want to do is ruin someone else’s dinner with my tears. More so, I think I had snot dripping out of my nose, which I found out does NOT make good for working up one’s appetite. I try to relax and when I do, I think it may have been too late. I quickly notice the couple next to me leave without dessert, I can’t help but wonder if my whaling was what caused them to get gelato on the go. Anyway I pulled it together long enough to order pasta with smoked salmon, the one and only time I ate salmon on the trip, and I know why… I had only a few bites, drank wine for dinner, and just moved on. Just as I was finishing up, I met a couple soon-to-be married and they were… interesting… a mail-order bride arrangement, internet love. Regardless, they were very nice and enjoyable to talk to, which was a nice distraction from my thoughts.
When I bid them farewell I decided to walk the streets a bit and eventually found my way back to the Bates Motel… I kid; it was more than adequate and very clean, just bare.
I washed up and drifted to sleep, I hope you all had a great day.
Baci,
Me
Day Six... Roma...
My final day in Rome and I am very sad. I know I have a lot to see and many plans made, but something about Roma feels “right”… I am at peace here (even in the chaos) Yes, my friends have made it unbelievable and much more enjoyable… but it goes beyond that. I love the rich culture, the city vibe and surprisingly the really warm people. I never in a million years thought I would fall in love with Rome, I wasn’t even that thrilled about going there. Boy am I eating my words, thoughts and assumptions; as I am now exploring every option that would allow me to stay here just a few more days. My time here has been nothing short of incredible and that is a GROSS understatement. No blog posts, pictures or even words can describe how amazing I feel here. It is purely the feelings I have…
I wake up later than normal again today because I am still not over whatever I “have”… but mind over matter and I promise myself I will beat it. I am sure it is a result of going non-stop since I arrived. Days filled with activities and nights filled with late dinners, great sights, and my sweet friends. I think Siena will provide me with much needed R & R but I still prefer my Rome and of course, my friends.
I allowed myself to lag a little longer today because I already hit all the “major” sites, so I was able to take my time getting out of my hotel. On the agenda today was Galleria Borghese. Carlo arranged the appointment and was impressed he did not have to give me directions. This area is much more than a Villa or Gallery, it is a beautiful park with several aspects… this is the place I had fallen in love with to run because the scenery is wonderful. As a result, I knew it well.
A BRIEF HISTORY LESSON ON GALLERIA BORGHESE:
I wake up later than normal again today because I am still not over whatever I “have”… but mind over matter and I promise myself I will beat it. I am sure it is a result of going non-stop since I arrived. Days filled with activities and nights filled with late dinners, great sights, and my sweet friends. I think Siena will provide me with much needed R & R but I still prefer my Rome and of course, my friends.
I allowed myself to lag a little longer today because I already hit all the “major” sites, so I was able to take my time getting out of my hotel. On the agenda today was Galleria Borghese. Carlo arranged the appointment and was impressed he did not have to give me directions. This area is much more than a Villa or Gallery, it is a beautiful park with several aspects… this is the place I had fallen in love with to run because the scenery is wonderful. As a result, I knew it well.
A BRIEF HISTORY LESSON ON GALLERIA BORGHESE:
The original sculptures and paintings in the Borghese Gallery date back to Cardinal Scipione's collection, the son of Ortensia Borghese - Paolo V's sister - and of Francesco Caffarelli, though subsequent events over the next three centuries entailing both losses and acquisition have left their mark.
Cardinal Scipion was drawn to any works of ancient, Renaissance and contemporary art which might re-evoke a new golden age. He was not particularly interested in medieval art, but passionately sought to acquire antique sculpture. But Cardinal Scipione was so ambitious that he promoted the creation of new sculptures and especially marble groups to rival antique works.
The statue of Pauline Bonaparte, executed by Canova between 1805 and 1808, has been in the villa since 1838. In 1807, Camillo Borghese sold Napoleon 154 statues, 160 busts, 170 bas-reliefs, 30 columns and various vases, which constitue the Borghese Collection in the Louvre. But already by the 1830s these gaps seem to have been filled by new finds from recent excavations and works recuperated from the cellars and various other Borghese residences.
Cardinal Scipion was drawn to any works of ancient, Renaissance and contemporary art which might re-evoke a new golden age. He was not particularly interested in medieval art, but passionately sought to acquire antique sculpture. But Cardinal Scipione was so ambitious that he promoted the creation of new sculptures and especially marble groups to rival antique works.
The statue of Pauline Bonaparte, executed by Canova between 1805 and 1808, has been in the villa since 1838. In 1807, Camillo Borghese sold Napoleon 154 statues, 160 busts, 170 bas-reliefs, 30 columns and various vases, which constitue the Borghese Collection in the Louvre. But already by the 1830s these gaps seem to have been filled by new finds from recent excavations and works recuperated from the cellars and various other Borghese residences.
Cardinal Scipione's collection of paintings was remarkable and was poetically described as early as 1613 by Scipione Francucci. In 1607, the Pope gave the Cardinal 107 paintings which had been confiscated from the painter Giuseppe Cesari, called the Cavalier d'Arpino. In the following year, Raphael's Deposition was secretely removed from the Baglioni Chapel in the church of S.Francesco in Perugia and transported to Rome. It was given to the Cardinal Scipione through a papal motu proprio.
In 1682, part of Olimpia Aldobrandini's inheritance entered the Borghese collection; it included works from the collections of Cardinal Salviati and Lucrezia d'Este.
In 1827 Prince Camillo bought Correggios' celebrated Danäe in Paris.
Okay there is your history lesson for the day… anyway, the gallery itself was INCREDIBLE. I think it was my favorite gallery so far because in one word, it is stunning. It is an old villa turned once owned by the famous Borghese family (see above and of course Google is always at your disposal). The painted walls, the architecture, and the BEAUTIFUL sculptures are beyond words. I learned each piece originally had a very precise placement for display based on what the artist/sculptor and owner intentions were. I never knew there was such a convoluted thought process involved with art. Nowadays we think if a picture, plant, or sculpture looks good in a particular area, we simply place it there, for no other reason than it looks good. Very little, if at all, do we have such reasoning for placement of our art.
You are allowed only two hours in the gallery, although I could have used three. I will never be able to name all the pieces or know their complete relevancies, however, just being in there and looking at all of the art and rooms, was unbelievable. This is one place everyone should see for themselves. Bellisima.
After the Galleria I go to the café in the park to meet Daniele… we have caffé and walk around, it was lovely… the only questionable part was when we went on the hunt to get an Italian cell phone for me. I literally dragged him around town, on foot, because of course I insisted we did not need to drive, for an hour and a half. The thing is, he was on a business call for a majority of our walk, so I am blindly leading him around and he is just following. I keep telling him I KNOW there is a Vodafone store nearby, but it was always “the next block”… Finally, when he got off the phone he realized what was going on and jokingly says, “I should have never followed you and we should have taken the car.” I responded, “well if you were not on the phone, maybe this could have been avoided.” We laughed and finally found a few places, in which he came in VERY handy and was a HUGE help… I would NEVER had known what to say or how to get what I was looking for. I probably would have left paying like 200 Euro for a phone without and minutes.
We never got a phone, but had fun trying… we walked back to the car and I bid Daniele farewell; however, not before learning a chocolate I gave him the night before had melted in his pocket and he didn’t discover it until his i-phone was covered in it. I felt pretty bad that my nice gesture went awry, but could not help laughing a bit… and now I will never be forgotten.
I go back to the hotel and just sit for a bit, as I tried to take it all in… literally, everything, Roma, as a whole… what I have done and seen, the AMAZING people I have met… everything. I think of ways to cancel my trip, stay in Roma, and continue this feeling. But as they say… they show must go on.
Just then I hop in the shower to get ready for my last evening with Emy and Adri. We go to a great restaurant… although different than the one they were going to take me to because apparently I was dressed too nice. I said “NONSENSE”… after all, I always dress in what I want, and I felt fine… but Emy and Adri were not having it.
We went to a great spot near Adri’s home and the food is great, too much of course, but buonisimo. Luca comes to say goodbye to me, which was so nice, he couldn’t stay long… but his effort was exactly what made him great. At dinner Adri hands me a small gift and handwritten letter, which melted my heart. Tutto en Italiano and one of the nicest gifts I have ever been given. It was not the actual gift, which were beautiful earrings Adri picked out for me… it was the time spent on this letter that accompanied them… Very touching.
After dinner we met “Alto” Luca for a drink, which ended up being going to a friend’s house for a bit. Everyone was very nice, although they did not speak much English; I give them credit for trying and nevertheless making me feel very welcomed. We did not stay long since I had to pack and let’s be honest, I am not the late nighter I used to be (luckily, neither is Adri).
When we arrive at my hotel I give mi amores BIG hugs and retreat to my room. I try to pack, finding it hard to do so; I REALLY don’t want to leave. I pull myself together and pack so I have very little to do in the morning. And be able to spend my final hours carefree to enjoyable.
I try and sleep… I hope you do too.
Buonanotte,
Me
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