Last day in Roma... Off to Siena... June 5, 2010

This morning I woke up at about 8:45 feeling very lethargic. Saying goodbye to my friends, to Roma, was not going to be easy. I put myself together, and took one more outing in the city. In doing so, I finally bought an Italian phone because I needed to stay in touch con mi Papa e tutto mi amicos. At 11:30 I bid arrevaderci to my beautiful hotel only to get invited for un caffé by Massimo, the hotel manager. “Grazie Massimo, pero mi amicos (then I switch to English) are coming to pick me up. To my surprise, he graciously invited them too. As Emy and Adri pulled up, he met them at the car, extended the invitation, and told the doorman and Carlo, to have the car parked until we were done.

We sat in the beautiful lounge to enjoy iced caffé (today is VERY hot in Roma) and a variety of biscotti. I never in my life experienced such incredible hospitality… Massimo, Carlo, Andrea, everyone at the hotel, in Roma, embraced yours truly with the most open of arms.

When we finished, I gave my lovely “family” hugs and kisses as they loaded my 18 ton suitcases in Emy’s car. And we were off… Emy and Adri gave me un libro on the “Ricostruzione” of Roma. Naturally, a children’s book, so funny, so amazing, SOOOOO Emy! See, he is a real life Peter Pan so the book was perfect.

Before the station we made a quick stop at Emy’s friend, Bebe’s, clothing boutique. I tried on a few things... Didn't buy, although I am still dreaming about the top I tried on. I told Bebe, I was only at the first place of my "tour" and at the end, I would see how much I had spent, and if allowed, I would call him and have him mail it to me! He agreed and was more than happy to oblige. Eventually the time came and the inevitable happened… We said bye to Bebe and made our way to the Roma train station.

I quickly grew anxious because the thought of saying goodbye to these two people hurt my heart. Never in my dreams would have thought I could feel so close to two people in such a short time. But I did, "du (no due en Roma) persone incredibili!

The train station was a zoo, which I guess was fitting since Emy said the train I was taking was like a "cattle truck"... As if I was not anxious enough, he painted an unbearable image of my first experience on the train or TRENO. I had absolutely no idea what to do when I got there. It was total chaos, no information booth or direction just a looming clock ticking as the time dwindled down… we stood in what we thought was the right line and did all we could, wait. Only Adri could make such a horrible situation better by opening the Lindt chocolate bar I had given her. It was like she knew what to do in such a time of need… like she could read my mind. Stellar move Adriana, brava.

After a little over a half of an hour, we got to the front of the line and the information we needed, and for a moment, I felt a great sense of release. If Adri had not been with me to talk to the man at the ticket counter and Emy to lug my bags, I would have been crying in the corner, mugged or dead. I closed my eyes made a mental picture of this "what if" and immediately started sweating. Of course they insisted on walking me all the way to the train, right down to loading my bags to my seats, I love them! They got me settled, and at that instant the tears started to flow... I had an overwhelming sense of emptiness as we said our final goodbye. I waved from the window until they were out of sight. When I sat back down, I cried for 15 minutes, thinking what a mistake I had made leaving...

As I sit on the train journaling from my BlackBerry, I am still sad, I am still teary-eyed but my adventure moves on, and although I know I will meet plenty of people, I will have true friends in Emy and Adri. And as I have learned (Miss Borden), true friends are just that, no matter where in the world we are, we will always be close and have each other.

I close my eyes for a bit and try to relax. The train ride is not too long but I had to change trains, which was not my favorite thing to do for obvious reasons. However, Siena is not a “hub”, therefore there are limited direct trains. I make the switch and when I arrive at the Siena station, I began walking to my hotel, after about a minute, I hail a cab. I have NO idea what I was thinking when I believed I could lug my bags to a place I had never been with no problem. Yes, if I had packed like a normal traveler, maybe… but since I packed enough for a small village; it was not going to happen. More so, it was all uphill, I am truly crazy I thought to myself as I chuckled in the back seat of the cab during out 5 minute drive to Hotel Minvera.

I checked in and was hustled to my room, and when I got there I immediately started to cry. Maybe it was because I was totally spoiled in Rome with people, places and friends (now family), or maybe because now… I was truly alone. My comfort zone was gone, no Emy, Adri or warm hotel staff… Carlo! Just Rita, the owner of the hotel (I think), who looks like the Italian Tina Fey (sort of). She is a bit sassy and short, not overly warm but not rude. She calls for the bellhop who reminded me of Emilio, the butler in Mr. Deeds. The one who is “very very sneaky”… because that was exactly how this guy was… he was ALWAYS there… out of nowhere, he would just appear… he was very very sneaky. He was harmless, but just in case, I would take pictures of my things when I left the room. So if he came in when I was gone to, oh I don’t know… try on my underwear, I would know! Of course, everything was always like I left it and I was being completely paranoid… he just really liked me!

Anyway… the room had no frills and was a little “older”. But I tell myself it is a “classic”. In reality, I am being an ass, it had everything I needed; it was very clean, spacious and extremely close to everything. I think this was where I became culture shocked and all I could do was cry, cry and cry… my first official breakdown of my life in Italia. I will be honest; it took everything inside of me to not take the first train out of there and back to Rome, to a week ago…

I cry for about 20 minutes in my room and go into the bathroom, splash water on my face, realize crying does nothing for my attractiveness, and decide to get out, explore and calm down. So I get dressed up and I take myself to dinner; I go downstairs and ask Tina where she would recommend. Even though she had a few options I decided to not go with any of them. Why? Because when I asked her where to go and told her I wanted a place with NO tourists, apparently I wasn’t clear. She did not absorb the question; it was like she answered before giving it any thought, or as if she knew what I was going to ask before I finished asking. Her hasty response led me to believe the following things: 1) she sends every guest of the hotel to these places; or 2) these are the closest restaurants to the hotel. In any event, I chose to go with my own find and if it sucked at least I would not resent Tina.

I went to a little restaurant that seemed local and very quaint. I sit alone, still crying, but desperately trying to stop because the last thing I want to do is ruin someone else’s dinner with my tears. More so, I think I had snot dripping out of my nose, which I found out does NOT make good for working up one’s appetite. I try to relax and when I do, I think it may have been too late. I quickly notice the couple next to me leave without dessert, I can’t help but wonder if my whaling was what caused them to get gelato on the go. Anyway I pulled it together long enough to order pasta with smoked salmon, the one and only time I ate salmon on the trip, and I know why… I had only a few bites, drank wine for dinner, and just moved on. Just as I was finishing up, I met a couple soon-to-be married and they were… interesting… a mail-order bride arrangement, internet love. Regardless, they were very nice and enjoyable to talk to, which was a nice distraction from my thoughts.

When I bid them farewell I decided to walk the streets a bit and eventually found my way back to the Bates Motel… I kid; it was more than adequate and very clean, just bare.

I washed up and drifted to sleep, I hope you all had a great day.

Baci,
Me

Day Six... Roma...

My final day in Rome and I am very sad. I know I have a lot to see and many plans made, but something about Roma feels “right”… I am at peace here (even in the chaos) Yes, my friends have made it unbelievable and much more enjoyable… but it goes beyond that. I love the rich culture, the city vibe and surprisingly the really warm people. I never in a million years thought I would fall in love with Rome, I wasn’t even that thrilled about going there. Boy am I eating my words, thoughts and assumptions; as I am now exploring every option that would allow me to stay here just a few more days. My time here has been nothing short of incredible and that is a GROSS understatement. No blog posts, pictures or even words can describe how amazing I feel here. It is purely the feelings I have…

I wake up later than normal again today because I am still not over whatever I “have”… but mind over matter and I promise myself I will beat it. I am sure it is a result of going non-stop since I arrived. Days filled with activities and nights filled with late dinners, great sights, and my sweet friends. I think Siena will provide me with much needed R & R but I still prefer my Rome and of course, my friends.

I allowed myself to lag a little longer today because I already hit all the “major” sites, so I was able to take my time getting out of my hotel. On the agenda today was Galleria Borghese. Carlo arranged the appointment and was impressed he did not have to give me directions. This area is much more than a Villa or Gallery, it is a beautiful park with several aspects… this is the place I had fallen in love with to run because the scenery is wonderful. As a result, I knew it well.

A BRIEF HISTORY LESSON ON GALLERIA BORGHESE:

The original sculptures and paintings in the Borghese Gallery date back to Cardinal Scipione's collection, the son of Ortensia Borghese - Paolo V's sister - and of Francesco Caffarelli, though subsequent events over the next three centuries entailing both losses and acquisition have left their mark.

Cardinal Scipion was drawn to any works of ancient, Renaissance and contemporary art which might re-evoke a new golden age. He was not particularly interested in medieval art, but passionately sought to acquire antique sculpture. But Cardinal Scipione was so ambitious that he promoted the creation of new sculptures and especially marble groups to rival antique works.

The statue of Pauline Bonaparte, executed by Canova between 1805 and 1808, has been in the villa since 1838. In 1807, Camillo Borghese sold Napoleon 154 statues, 160 busts, 170 bas-reliefs, 30 columns and various vases, which constitue the Borghese Collection in the Louvre. But already by the 1830s these gaps seem to have been filled by new finds from recent excavations and works recuperated from the cellars and various other Borghese residences.

Cardinal Scipione's collection of paintings was remarkable and was poetically described as early as 1613 by Scipione Francucci. In 1607, the Pope gave the Cardinal 107 paintings which had been confiscated from the painter Giuseppe Cesari, called the Cavalier d'Arpino. In the following year, Raphael's Deposition was secretely removed from the Baglioni Chapel in the church of S.Francesco in Perugia and transported to Rome. It was given to the Cardinal Scipione through a papal motu proprio.

In 1682, part of Olimpia Aldobrandini's inheritance entered the Borghese collection; it included works from the collections of Cardinal Salviati and Lucrezia d'Este.

In 1827 Prince Camillo bought Correggios' celebrated Danäe in Paris.

Okay there is your history lesson for the day… anyway, the gallery itself was INCREDIBLE. I think it was my favorite gallery so far because in one word, it is stunning. It is an old villa turned once owned by the famous Borghese family (see above and of course Google is always at your disposal). The painted walls, the architecture, and the BEAUTIFUL sculptures are beyond words. I learned each piece originally had a very precise placement for display based on what the artist/sculptor and owner intentions were. I never knew there was such a convoluted thought process involved with art. Nowadays we think if a picture, plant, or sculpture looks good in a particular area, we simply place it there, for no other reason than it looks good. Very little, if at all, do we have such reasoning for placement of our art.

You are allowed only two hours in the gallery, although I could have used three. I will never be able to name all the pieces or know their complete relevancies, however, just being in there and looking at all of the art and rooms, was unbelievable. This is one place everyone should see for themselves. Bellisima.

After the Galleria I go to the café in the park to meet Daniele… we have caffé and walk around, it was lovely… the only questionable part was when we went on the hunt to get an Italian cell phone for me. I literally dragged him around town, on foot, because of course I insisted we did not need to drive, for an hour and a half. The thing is, he was on a business call for a majority of our walk, so I am blindly leading him around and he is just following. I keep telling him I KNOW there is a Vodafone store nearby, but it was always “the next block”… Finally, when he got off the phone he realized what was going on and jokingly says, “I should have never followed you and we should have taken the car.” I responded, “well if you were not on the phone, maybe this could have been avoided.” We laughed and finally found a few places, in which he came in VERY handy and was a HUGE help… I would NEVER had known what to say or how to get what I was looking for. I probably would have left paying like 200 Euro for a phone without and minutes.

We never got a phone, but had fun trying… we walked back to the car and I bid Daniele farewell; however, not before learning a chocolate I gave him the night before had melted in his pocket and he didn’t discover it until his i-phone was covered in it. I felt pretty bad that my nice gesture went awry, but could not help laughing a bit… and now I will never be forgotten.

I go back to the hotel and just sit for a bit, as I tried to take it all in… literally, everything, Roma, as a whole… what I have done and seen, the AMAZING people I have met… everything. I think of ways to cancel my trip, stay in Roma, and continue this feeling. But as they say… they show must go on.

Just then I hop in the shower to get ready for my last evening with Emy and Adri. We go to a great restaurant… although different than the one they were going to take me to because apparently I was dressed too nice. I said “NONSENSE”… after all, I always dress in what I want, and I felt fine… but Emy and Adri were not having it.

We went to a great spot near Adri’s home and the food is great, too much of course, but buonisimo. Luca comes to say goodbye to me, which was so nice, he couldn’t stay long… but his effort was exactly what made him great. At dinner Adri hands me a small gift and handwritten letter, which melted my heart. Tutto en Italiano and one of the nicest gifts I have ever been given. It was not the actual gift, which were beautiful earrings Adri picked out for me… it was the time spent on this letter that accompanied them… Very touching.

After dinner we met “Alto” Luca for a drink, which ended up being going to a friend’s house for a bit. Everyone was very nice, although they did not speak much English; I give them credit for trying and nevertheless making me feel very welcomed. We did not stay long since I had to pack and let’s be honest, I am not the late nighter I used to be (luckily, neither is Adri).

When we arrive at my hotel I give mi amores BIG hugs and retreat to my room. I try to pack, finding it hard to do so; I REALLY don’t want to leave. I pull myself together and pack so I have very little to do in the morning. And be able to spend my final hours carefree to enjoyable.

I try and sleep… I hope you do too.

Buonanotte,
Me

Day Five... Roma...

I woke up this morning with a little bit of a sore throat, I was very sad and a little over tired so all I could do was cry. But don’t worry my tears last only 2 minutes, which is when I pulled my head out of my ass and remembered… I am in ROME! I just have to take care of myself the best I can and keep going. I got dressed for my day at the Colosseo and went to see Carlo for my morning directions. Bless Carlo’s soul, he has been so patient with me and all of my reservation requests, I simply adore him. As every morning, no map, no taxi, and of course, call if I need a nything; he smiles and sends me on my way. No matter how far it is, I am walking, it is therapeutic, beautiful, my “downtime”. It was a little chilly out today, but nevertheless, I walk, cardigan in hand.

I get to the Coloesso and again, walk to the front of the line to retrieve my ticket placed on hold by Carlo the previous day. The remains of the Colosseo are breathtaking, for a moment I closed my eyes and actually imagined myself seeing an event as a Roman, it was surreal. The amphitheater is huge, I felt like an a little grain of sand on the largest beach… Although there were not thousands of paintings to admire, or the need to dedicate an entire day to the Colosseo, the sight is no less incredible or lacking importance and beauty.

After I left the Colosseo, I made my way to the Santa Maria in Cosmedin to see the infamous Bocco della Verità (Mouth of Truth). Again, legend has it that if a liar was to stick his hand in the mouth of the large face carved from stone, it will get bitten off. When I told Adri I would know a few people who would be leaving with only one hand, she quickly reminded me of my “my husband is waiting for me” excuse I used to skip the line at the Vatican. Touché, Adri, touché.

Just then, it started to rain and it rained all day, harder at various times, much like San Diego. As a result, I did the only thing I could do; go shopping… how else was I supposed to keep dry? But try #2; much like try #1, I didn’t have any luck. I had my second gelato; it was okay, not nearly in the same ballpark as Giollitri’s, however, it was still very enjoyable.

When I got back to the hotel, I was exhausted; I took a little nap and then emailed Massimo letting him know that I would be coming in for actual dinner this time. Emy and Adri took the night off, rightfully so, they were not on vacation and had already done SO much for me. Max was again very gracious and told me he would be happy to host me. When I finally peeled myself off my bed I took a shower and pulled myself together.

Etablí adorable as ever, I finally met Max… remember, I have only emailed with him but never actually met him. Francesco was there, enjoying dinner and wine. In addition to my known friends, were Daniele and Patrick, two handsome, inviting, fashionable men are also friends with Max & Co, and now me. Naturally we all sat together, drank, ate, laughed and talked up a storm. My waiter, Giuseppe, was adorable, reminded me of my friend Jerry from home, as in Chicago. He loved to talk rugby and why he quit, he was now on to surfing… but I could tell he was longing to play rugby again. There wasn’t a glass of wine he recommended that I didn’t like and I let Francesco order dinner for me and he did a great job… honestly, there wasn’t anything that I didn’t like about this place. People, ambiance, food, wine, everything was just warm and authentic. If I lived in Roma, it would be my neighborhood eatery. After a long day and night, Francesco “scooted” me home… haha, “scooted”= drove, but on a scooter!

I am greeted by the evening staff with big smiles and I smile back, just feeling so happy and fulfilled. I, of course, try not to think I am leaving in two days and fall asleep with one of the biggest smiles on my face I think I have ever had. I drift off dreaming of how much I wish I never had to leave.

I hope this feeling never goes away, and I hope everyone can feel like this in their life.

Baci!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

xoxo,
Me

Day Four... Roma...

Today I am going to the long awaited Vatican… I was anxious, excited, nervous, and dreading the thought of the mass amount of people I would see. Because it was a holiday in Roma, the streets were crowded, the shops were closed and the Vatican was busier than normal. I asked Carlo, who I look forward to chatting with every morning, the best way to get to my destination. He hesitantly asks me, “Can I call you a taxi, Miss Alexandria? This one is pretty, far…” “No Grazie, Carlo, no map and no taxi.” He laughs as if he already knew my answer but believes it never hurts to ask. He also knows warning me of the length of the walk, and the time it will take me to get there, falls on deaf ears. As he said, “walking keeps you in shape, and you must do a lot of walking.” Sweet Carlo proceeds to explain the route and, as always, makes sure all of my questions are answered before I walk out the door. He smiles with his infectious smile, reiterates to call if I need anything and leaves me with a “Ciao Bella.”

At the start of the day the weather is warm and sunny… perfect conditions for my walk. The walk is blissful and enjoyable now that I am familiar with the streets. I will not lie, the walk, just as everyone from Carlo to the polizia I stopped and asked for help had warned, was long, about 5 miles each way… not counting all the walking you do when you are there.

Per Carlo's instructions, I bought my ticket the night before. I planned a noontime reservation, whatever that meant, so I wanted to make it “on time”. The thing is in Roma is that every building is constructed with breathtaking architecture, and as a result, I thought every beautiful building was the museo because I didn’t really know what I was looking for.

When I got to the center, it was PACKED and it appeared everyone was listening to something. I figured it had to do with the holiday, so I proceeded to push my way up to the front. I was on a quest for a particular destination and that destination was the Vatican Museum, I had no time for Looky-Lous. Just as I was about to turn and run away, a voice caught my attention; it was frail, soft and spoke with no sense of urgency. Sure enough when I looked up, OH MY GOSH, it was the POPE!!!!

Now, I am not remotely CLOSE to being religious, however, religious or not, hearing the Pope speak is an honor, an extreme rarity and an inconceivable experience; it was quite overwhelming. Once I was able to gather myself, I proceeded to walk around the wall to continue my quest to the Vatican Museum… at first, I was thankful all those people were gathered only for the Pope’s speech on this historical day. However, my excitement quickly turned to disappointment when I arrived at the museo. A line, 4 and a half hours long (I later found out), stretched back several blocks. A woman even passed out in line, probably from heat exhaustion, dehydration or just because there were that many people; but I was on a mission and I was NOT about to wait in that madness. Yours truly marched her little tush right up to the door and told the guard that my “husband” was already inside and I had to run back to the hotel because I had forgotten the camera (I am going to hell… yes, I know). He looked at me and said go ahead, just as I heard another mutter something under his breath. But I was IN and I never looked back!

I quickly realized being alone was the best and most effective way to do such intricate sightseeing. Forget about my “looks”, being only one person is easy; it is oh “just one more person”… I have no doubt if I had been with a large group or even another person it would not have been that easy.

The Vatican Museum was beautiful, room after room after room, each with more magnificent paintings and sculptures than the one before. I took my time, I snapped about 300 pictures, and laughed at about 100 tourist groups (I wonder if they know how ridiculous they look). One person is talking into a little microphone, while about 40 people try to juggle listening, looking and processing the art… AND trying to “stay with the group”. I actually saw one guide loose the majority of her group and spend about 40 minutes trying to find them. It was pretty funny.

While in any sort of museum, gallery or “attraction” I have made it a rule to be Italian, not only is it fun way to practice the language, but it provides me a little entertainment. One couple from Ohio was doing the typical picture-taking process, one person poses while the other takes the photo and then they switch. When I saw this couple doing just that, I transformed into my Italian alter Ego, Alexandria (sounds very nice when Italians say it), and pointed back and forth to each and said “due” or “two”, indicating I would be happy to take a photo of the both of them capturing the fact they are actually on the same vacation. The woman almost wet her pants from excitement as she tells her husband to show me how to use the camera. “Si, Si, hai capito… pronto? Un, Due, Tre…” I say. The woman is quick to offer a photo of me too, which was nice… however how the whole thing went down made the situation nothing short of hysterical.

Picture it: she thinks I don’t speak English, so she proceeds not to speak slower, but louder. So this woman, wearing a fabulous orange ensemble, is about an arm’s length away from me yelling “DO YOU WANT ME TO TAKE A PHOTO OF YOUUUUU (yes, emphasizing the ‘you’ while gesturing the “snap shot” movement with her hands). I try not to laugh, although it made for a more “believable” smile. I say “si, grazie” and pose. At that point I want to take my camera and bid the “Griswalds” buongiorno… but she is not letting me off the hook that easily… “YOU LOOK, IS THAT OOOOKKKK?” As she is again doing her “sign language” for OK.

“Si, si, brava, perfecto. Molto grazie per mi foto, buongiorno.” At last, I am free and laughing as I walk for the next 6 minutes.

I spend the next few hours walking through the halls of the museum, careful not to miss any nook or cranny. The last stop in the Vatican Museum is the famed Cappella Sistina “Sistine Chapel”. As I am sure you know, this is a very sacred Chapel, which means you cannot take video or photos and you are supposed to be quiet for respect of others… however, for some reason, tourists have a problem with all three.

I stay there for about 20 minutes, breathing it in, trying to live in the moment. Of course, I have to constantly remind myself to clear my mind and stay present but the tourist groups make it increasingly difficult. It is like being in a library and you hear the buzzing of someone’s i-pod turned up too loud or the humming of the whispers between people. The distractions make it harder to stay present and tune-out. Nevertheless, the Chapel was magnificent, I stared so long, the images seem to become three dimensional, and it was amazing.

As I followed the exit signs to Basilica di San Pietro, I was greeted by Gianni, a guard I asked for directions, who ended up giving me the “VIP” treatment. Emy is still making fun of me and I am not sure if I will ever live it down. Gianni tells me I have missed a few exhibits and once I exit, I cannot come back in, so he tells me to turn around and head back up the stairs, through the Chapel to the Pius-Clementine Museum. A collection of “rooms” dedicated to various subjects (animals, statues, Busts/Emperors, Muse, etc.). Once I was done there, to come back to him and he would direct me to the “proper” way to see the Basilica.

I am weary to do this because I saw a line growing quickly below. When I asked Gianni what the people were waiting for, he explained to me the Basilica is divided into three parts (the church, the tombs and the cupola or the Dome). The Dome is what everyone was waiting to see, as it is famous for being the tallest in the world and Michelangelo's last great work. More so, it overlooks the entire city of Roma, which is exquisite. However, I was shocked when Gianni told me not only do you have to pay (again) to see this, you have to wait (again). He told me that he has seen people wait sometimes up to 4 hours; to which I answered with the most bewildered facial expression… As great as it sounded, 4 hours to wait in that sort of line… I would do it on my next trip to Roma (because I will be back!). Gianni did NOT approve of that idea.

He suggested I see the tombs first and then return to his station; he would then call his friend working in the Dome for me. He was the expert, so I followed his instructions and headed for the tombs. As you can imagine, the tombs, were just that... in a beautiful basement below the Basilica where the Popes are laid to rest. As I was walking through, I felt some sort of sadness… sort of like going to a cemetery. You cannot help to think that these were once living people, very important worshipped people. It was just sad, I don’t know how to describe it… but it was a somber yet memorable experience.

As promised, upon completion, I went back to take Gianni up on his VIP treatment. Considering the line today was ranging somewhere between 2-3 hours, I was happy to take his help if he could “make it happen”. And this man was a man of his word because not only did he call in a favor to his fellow guard; he escorted me past the waiting people, free of charge, to the cupola. VIP… that is me…

You have to take an elevator up, which is where Gianni bid me farewell, to get to the bottom, yes, the bottom, of the stairs. I then proceeded to climb a steep, long, narrow and windy staircase. Just when you think you are done, there are more stairs, and then more. Eventually, they end and the reward is indescribable. The view is something out of an art book, the Dome was beautiful, every detail was perfected and the Basilica below was overwhelming. I am getting emotional just thinking about it… FANTASTICO…

I embraced this moment for as long as I could, to be honest, I could have sat there all day, but I had to keep moving, sadly.

The actual St. Pietro was gorgeous… The walls were covered with sculptures, paintings and various details. Everything was perfectly and intricately placed… incredible. With something like this (as in many of my experiences, “presence” is the only way to fully understand what I saw). There will never be enough words, descriptions, blog entries or even pictures the can come close to depicting the real feeling of this place or any for that matter.

As I walked away for the Basilica toward the exit, I was shell-shocked from everything I had experienced over the last 5 hours of my life. I reflected on my, equally as long, walk back to my hotel, smiling the entire way.

The first face I look for is Carlo to tell him about my wonderful experience, he is happy and we laughed about how long the walk was. When I got back to my room my feet were filthy, I almost threw up… I washed them, changed my clothes and had an afternoon caffé and biscuits at the hotel restaurant… it was breezy, almost cold as I sat there. The great thing I got to finally Skype with Ali and Courty, seeing their faces made me very happy. I miss my family and friends dearly, but I love Rome.

I asked Emy and Adry if they would take me to see “Rome by Night”… to be honest I don’t even know why I ask; they didn’t event flinch and happily obliged. They picked me up and we went to a pizzeria where I was warmly greeted and well-fed. We proceeded to see Rome by Night and it was awesome, with the exception I am lousy at taking pictures! After Emy’s much needed assistance we met Luca for an ice cream at Emy’s “old neighborhood joint”. I had pistachio and chocolate, of course and it was out of this world. Smooth and silky, just as I hoped.

Because I had such a long day, I could not last that long and went home “early”. Early here is 12:30 am! I slept like a baby and thought about the day and how happy I was… if I was anyone else, I would have wanted to be me… only for the experiences I have been lucky enough to have had thus far.

Well goodnight Bellos e Bellas.

xoxo- Me

Day Four... Roma Fotos!

Vatican (Basilica di San Pietro, Square and Church, Cupola):

Find My Name...

Line to the Cupola:

Castel St. Angelo (Hadrian's Mausoleum):

My Feet After Walking ALL Day, YUCK:

Afternoon Routine (Writing, Biscuits & Caffé):

Dinner, Pizza, Buonissimo:

Of Course... Gelato:

Day Three... Roma Fotos!

As promised, here are more pictures from Day Three in Roma... however, many photos from the night are on Emy's camera, as it is very fancy and takes professional pictures. But you can enjoy these in the interim…

Nationale Museo Sculptures:

(Iconografia Imperiale Dell’età Severiana)

Nationale Museo Art:
(Le Piante Viste con Gli Occhi Degli Antichi)

View from the Museo:

The Fountain Outside the Museo:

Dinner:

Wine, chosen by Lorenzo... actually, it was all chosen by Lorenzo, MOTLO BENE!

Bruschetta Trio:

Margarita Pizza:

Chocolate Profiteroles (okay, THESE were my pick):

And of course a few Videos:

Day Three... Roma...

The "Keyhole" to the Vatican:

Museo Nazionale Romano- Palazzo Massimo Alle Terme:

MORE PICTURES TO COME!!!

I woke up today about 9:00 and it felt great! I still had a little trouble wanting to actually get out of bed; however, I was very excited to get the day going. One thing that followed me from the US is my inability to leave the “house” without cleaning my things up, having multiple wardrobe changes topping it off with my dance party. I hope I can loose some of that as the trip goes on.

Today was my first “day” alone… no Emanuele, Adry or Luca… just me, my i-pod, and my directions (I told the Concierge, Andrea, I refused to walk around with a map)… Andrea and Roberto (of the Concierge) had arranged for me to have appointments at the Colosseum on Thursday and Galleria de Borghese tomorrow. However, tomorrow is Italy’s “Independence Day” and there is a big festival with a parade and singing… I am thinking maybe because of this, the Vatican will be less crowded, as tourists love the “hot” thing… If that is the case, I will plan to go to the Vatican and St. Peter’s tomorrow and the Galleria and shopping on Friday.

Anyway, that was a side note… today I walked to the Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Massimo alle Terme (National Museum of Rome), near the train station, which of course means street vendors, tourists, garbage and even porn for sale… a little bit of everything, naturally. After detouring to various smaller attractions, I arrived at the museum and it was incredible. I walked slowly, to take it all in… it houses Roman marble statues with some Greek original pieces (which according to the man who worked there, is very rare). Seeing the pictures doesn’t do it justice, being up-close to such amazing art is indescribable… the heads of various ancient rulers, sons, wives etc. are right there in front of you and cannot help but think that at one time, these people were living. The descriptions ranged from vague to as specific as to the hairstyle and what they meant; yes, HAIRSTYLES HAD MEANINGS! I will not post all of the pictures but for those who want to see all of them, let me know and I will email them to you.

The only bummer was that my camera died halfway through the museum so I had to resort to my phone, and when that ran out of battery, I had to turn to the Flip (thank you, Karen)… As a result, the pictures are scattered and some are even in the form of a video. My thought was as long as the beauty was captured, it didn’t really matter what device I used. The entire Museum took me a little over two hours, as I tend to get lost in what I am doing and loose track of time. I think I could have stayed longer even after “seeing everything” but decided to leave due to lack of batteries! Thankfully, the 7 Euro ticket I purchased is good for 3 days, in the event I want to go back.

Now, I sit at my hotel, charging, tanning and blogging. When Emanuele gets off of work (who works???) we will go to Trevas, walk around the Jewish Ghetto and a few other “picture” places I have on “my list”… I brought my book which is entitled “100 Places in Italy Every Woman Should Go” because it references those places in Italy catered to the Donna travelers… so we can enjoy the masterpieces of art that “glorifies the womanly curves”, cooking classes “taught by revered grandmas”, shop “for what else… SHOES”, or paint “a Tuscan landscape”. One place in particular I can’t wait to see is the Santa Maria in Cosmedin. Upon entering, there is the infamous, Bocco della Verità (Mouth of Truth). Legend has it that if a liar was to stick his hand in the mouth of the large face carved from stone, it will get bitten off. I know a few people who would be leaving with only one hand.

Stay tuned for the evening events… as I am going to go get an espresso, see the Spanish Steps and go for a run before it is time to meet Emanuele.

Buonasera!!!

I’m back…

Well, I went and saw the Spanish Steps for REAL today, and I have to admit, the ONLY enjoyable part about them was the remarkable surrounding buildings and the architecture. The mass amount of people, the overpriced stores, and the in-your-face tourist vendors were all too chaotic for me. As a result, I snapped my pictures, put my headphones in and proceeded to explore on my own. It was not until I opened my mouth that the locals discovered I was American, and I must admit, I love it! I avoid a lot of aggressiveness that way… I did a bit of shopping; but I had no luck, yet… so I headed back to the hotel to get ready for dinner.

Emanuele informed me that another friend, Lorenzo, would be contacting me, which he did and arranged to meet us for dinner. However, not only did he meet us, he went out of his way to pick me up at my hotel. Again, I am so appreciative for the openhandedness of my new friends; they are incredible and have made my trip, without a doubt, top-notch. Tonight, we “killed two birds with one stone” by having dinner in the Trastevere neighborhood where we could walk around and eat Pizza... I cannot remember when I laughed so hard, let alone throughout the entire dinner. I could not have asked for a more enjoyable group to spend time with. I had the best time… walking, talking, laughing, playing photographer (thank you Emy) and learning bad words in Italian.

On the way back to my hotel, Lorenzo proceeded to show me a few more sights. One in particular, was a door where you look through the key hole and you see the Vatican perfectly. It was as clear as day, illuminated by a bright spotlight, it was unbelievable. It was as if I was looking into a telescope, without the telescope.

I said goodnight to Lorenzo and headed to my room, where I finally got to Skype with my Sister and my Boogie Boo!!!! He is getting so big and I miss him terribly but I know if he was old enough to understand, he would be so happy I am here!

Well goodnight Mi Amicos… Long day tomorrow… stay tuned!

Ciao Bellos e Bellas,
Ali

Day Two... Roma...

Spanish Steps:

Via Tripoli!:

Reggie Look-a-Like, Lorenzo:

Pantheon:

Trevi Fountain:

Il Giornale:

Oldest Cafe:

I woke up today about 8:11, I did not want to get out of bed, but did because I was meeting Adriana at the “Piazza de Espana”… The night before, she gave me detailed directions to this place… “walk down the steps, I will be waiting for you at the fountain with the little ship” she said to me. Perfecto, I can remember that! Apparently, I couldn’t, because somehow I managed to get lost. It was only three streets, so how I got lost, I have NO idea. Maybe it was my i-pod, my frequent stops to chat with the locals or just being oblivious, I have no clue… but I was definitely lost. After two phone calls to Adry and probably $100 in cell phone charges, we found each other.

We walked to out supposed meeting spot and trust me when I tell you, I must have been sleep walking… because these weren’t just any steps, they were the SPANISH STEPS. We laughed at my lack of direction and immediately went to grab our morning caffé and just walked and talked. She showed me all the Americanized stores (Gucci, Prada, Dior, Hermes, etc.), took me to the “mall” called the Galleria Alberto Sordi, showed me where the Roman newspaper is published, the oldest café in Rome, and of course, one of the most famous churches. Adry even got to reminisce and show me her old school!

Although Adry could not stay with me for a long time, she was an amazing guide… and a fabulous friend. We agreed it was also great to spend time together for our respective language progression. When she had to leave, Adry informed me Luca would be coming to take me to the other places on my list… I am telling you, I will never be able to repay my Roman friends for all they have done for me. And they NEVER even gave any of their generosity a second thought, they are truly special.

I met Luca and we went all over… the Trevi Fountain, Campo dé Fiori, Piazza Navona, Pantheon, Piazza del Popolo, Piazza Venezia, Capitol Hill and the popular Roman Forum. He briefed me on the history of each and then took me for my first Gelato at the famous gelateria, Giolitti’s. Most of all he was a trooper during the hunt for my computer adapter. Since the ones I brought only had two prongs and my computer cord has three. Luca took me from electronic store to electronic store, and we had no luck. One was near the neighborhood he, Emanuele and Andrea grew up in; which coincidently was on Via Tripoli… AMZAING… of course, I several took videos and pictures. Not only did we find “La Via de Mi Famiglia”, while Luca got gas, I spotted a messy, overstuffed computer-like store… and when I walked in to exhaust my last possibility for an adapter… this man (see video) saved my life for 2 Euros, 2 EUROS… I was like you mean 20 Euro, right? But he said no, so for only 2 Euro, I am back in action. So amicos, we owe this blog to him. As I childishly skipped out of the store in excitement, the men in the store told Luca to stop giving me so much wine… little did they know, that is just ME!

With the adapter in hand, Luca had to drop me at my hotel and hustle to work… As we were en- route, Luca was pulled over by the Polizia. What I gathered was that Luca’s registration did not match his license. Although I felt horrible, I had to catch it on film and take a few pictures of the event. Luca was very light-hearted and did not let it bother him or affect his mood (so opposite of me!)…

Then, when I arrived in my room, I was alone… for the very first time… I was alone. I decided to dress myself up, ask the concierge where the locals eat, and took myself to dinner. I went to Giovanni’s, had spinach stuffed raviolis and a plethora of vegetables. After, I was invited to Etablí (owned by Andrea’s friend, Massimo) to meet Massimo’s brother, Francesco, and a friend for dessert and wine. What happened next, I entirely sure… I arrived, had absolutely the best chocolate lava cake, great wine and amazing company… then, somehow this quaint, mellow, warm restaurant turned into what I can only describe as a disco. I met two German couples, in their 60’s, outside the restaurant and they were wasted, just having a blast. So they came into the restaurant the only way to explain the next two hours, is to watch the video below. After all said and done, I hopped on the scooter and got a night tour of Rome, which never gets old. When I got home, I was still laughing. How the night took a turn from Soloville to Crazytown, I will never know… but nonetheless, it still makes me laugh, even now as I recount the details.

So Bellos and Bellas, Enjoy and we meet again tomorrow!

xo- Ali